The Famous Bancroft House Hash: A Skeptic Explores The Story

4 minutes ago
4 min read

Part I – Random Discoveries

“The most famous item on the hotel’s menu is Bancroft Corned Beef Hash of which 6,000 pounds are served each month. The dish was originated in 1872 when Chef George Cobb had a surplus of cold boiled potatoes. He diced four cupfuls of them, added four of diced Corned Beef, a cup of coffee cream, a pinch of nutmeats [Sic.], and salt. Next, he browned the patties on both sides in butter and served.”

“Today Bancroft Hotel Hash is severed at the Waldorf-Astoria in Jamaica and France.”

-The Saginaw News, August 8, 1948.

For generations, the story of the famous Bancroft House’s corned beef hash has been a beloved Saginaw legend. And like all legends, in each retelling, the details – and the recipe – tend to vary and shift. In most versions, it is George Cobb, a longtime chef at the Bancroft, who is credited with embellishing this classic and once common American dish with a cup of heavy cream – as though corned beef needed enrichment. A few sources move the magic out of the kitchen and credit manager Farnham Lyon as the creator. Sometimes the event happened in the 1860s and sometimes in the 1870s. Some versions of the recipe add nutmeg, and others call for some form of vaguely defined nut meats. It is a confusing miasma, and we enter into our search knowing that the Bancroft Hotel’s history has often been embellished for advertising purposes. After all, who can resist staying and dining at a hotel with an illustrious history.

Below is the earliest mention of associating the Bancroft with a unique preparation of corned beef hash – we qualify that -- we discovered it in a Saginaw paper:

“Saginaw has achieved another distinction. She has a chef who has drawn from the noted actor, William H. Crane,* a tribute to his hash. Here is what George Cobb, the veteran chef at the Bancroft received in manuscript form this morning:

Jan. 9^th, ’09; My Dear Mr. Cobb – I only want to say to you that I always feel that nothing withstanding the fact that I have many friends whom I am glad to see and who crowd the theater no visit to Saginaw could be complete without some of your ‘corned beef hash.’ I like it! And we could only all live – Maj Lyon to provide - you to make – and I to eat it – until I should tire of it – What Methuselah’s we should be! With many best wishes and ‘many happy returns[.]’ Very Truly Wm H. Crane. (The Saginaw Evening News, January 9, 1909.)

The testimonial letter supports Cobb’s place as perfector of Bancroft House hash. An excerpt from his obituary provides more details about his life:

“Mr. Cobb was born May 15, 1854, in Syracuse, N.Y., where his boyhood days were spent. In 1871 he became associated with the late Farnham Lyon, who was then managing the Merlor house in Grand Rapids. In 1875 when Mr. Lyon took the management of the Bancroft house. Mr. Cobb came to Saginaw and became chef of the hotel, and filling the position until 1914, when he was compelled by failing health to give up his position. He was particularly capable and proficient in this line and was possessed of an enviable reputation.” (The Saginaw Daily News, July 24 1916.)

The 1875 date given for his taking duties at the Bancroft suggests Cobb either concocted the recipe prior to his arrival at the Bancroft House, or more likely, he created it later in the nineteenth century.

The next listing suggests that by the early twentieth century, Bancroft Hash was a recognizable dish.

“The ladies of St. Paul’s church will serve a Bancroft hash supper at Forester hall tonight from 5 until 7 o’clock -Adv.” (The Saginaw Daily News, April 1, 1916.)

According to the story, Bancroft Corned Beef Hash was recognized and served throughout the county. And we started our search in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Although we didn’t find it on a restaurant menu, we did find the subject for next week’s exploration:

“By special request, Mrs. Saunders will take for her subject, ‘bread making; and will also prepare and serve the famous ‘Bancroft’ hash, enlightening the ladies on the subject generally.” (The Evening Press [Grand Rapids, Michigan,] December 15, 1904.)

Next week we will explore Carrie Ives Saunders’ interpretation

The Recipe: A Mid-twentieth-century Interpretation

This recipe is reproduced from a display card once displayed on tables in the Bancroft’s restaurant.

Corned beef and boiled potatoes, chopped when cold, and not chopped fine. Use one cup of meat, three cups of potatoes, one-fourth cup of butter, and one-half cup of cream, stew in sauce pan over slow fire and serve plain, or browned in frying pan, omelet shape.

Ingredients:

1 cup cooked corned beef, cooled and then coarsely diced

3 cups boiled potatoes, cooled and then coarsely diced

¼ cup butter

½ cup heavy cream

Salt and pepper to taste

Method:

In a sauce pan melt butter over medium heat. Add corned beef, potatoes and cream and cook stew until fully heated. Either serve or form into patties and fry in butter to brown each side.