A small brick building on West Genesee - today it houses a phone repair shop - connects us with the rich diversity of Saginaw’s heritage. Shortly after the structure was completed, a small article appeared in The Saginaw News on March 25, 1966:
“Mexican Taco Hut Opening
A ribbon cutting ceremony at 11 a.m. Saturday will signal the opening of the gleaming modern Taco Hut in the Pere Marquette Shopping Center, W. Genesee. Greater Saginaw Chamber of Commerce and city officials will be present.
The business is owned by Paul S. Olvera, 2719 Witters, and Antonio G. Olvera, 4435 N. Michigan. It will be managed by the latter and their mother, Mrs. [Ester] S. Olvera will be the cook. She has had considerable experience in the preparation of Mexican dishes.”
Soon renamed Taco Villa, the takeout eatery thrived. Years later the Saginaw News featured the story of owner, Paul Olvera, who by that time, had opened additional businesses. The article recounted his success in residential construction and continued:
“After giving a few special instructions to the waitress, he settles back with a smile, seeming to enjoy the chance to stop moving and to reflect on how he has successfully combined careers as a custom builder and an owner of profitable restaurants.
A native of Austin, Texas, Olvera, 48, is a connoisseur of Mexican food. He put that knowledge to good use 17 years ago when he opened his first Mexican eatery at 228 E. Genesee in a tiny building west of the Saginaw River.
Other restaurants quickly followed. Casa del Rey, 2945 Bay, opened in 1974. Olvera is currently remodeling a third restaurant, this one in Bay City, and another eatery is on the drawing boards in Midland.”
The article continued:
“Paul and his wife, Esther, have successfully ridden the ups and downs of economic trends, instead of pulling in the reins during slumps, the Olvera family has dug in its heels and held on firmly with each new dip in the economy.
Although his first love is designing and building homes, Olvera discovered in 1965 that he had to augment his custom building business to stay afloat during tough times, as high interest rates and inflation cut building starts. That's when he turned his attention to soothing the hunger pangs of Saginaw diners by opening his first Mexican take-out restaurant.
“‘We realized that recessions go in spurts,’ Olvera explained. ‘When that happens, people hold back on building. Esther and I had some savings back in ‘65 and decided to give the restaurant business a try.’” (The Saginaw News, June 27, 1982.)
By the mid-1980s, The Saginaw News reported, Olvera’s restaurant business was considered among the fastest-growing Hispanic businesses nationally.
Casa Del Rey closed in 1994. Olvera continued his catering business. He was severely injured in a 1995 explosion and passed away in 2008.
An article published at the time of his passing notes:
“Known as a booster of Hispanic pride in the community, he also was a front-runner in an attempt to fight the influx of chain restaurants into mid-Michigan in the early 1990s. He viewed chain merchants as a threat to the survival of independent business owners like himself.”
“‘ Most people don’t see it, but big chains are eliminating small business,’ Olvera predicted in 1992.” (The Saginaw News, August 12, 2008.)
We cannot help but note, writer Richard Reeves in his 1982 book, American Journey: Travelling with Tocqueville in Search of Democracy in America, provides a confused and jumbled description of his brief visit to Saginaw. One of the numerous mistakes Reeves makes in his ramblings about Saginaw is identifying Taco Villa as a Taco Bell. And ironically a Taco Bell is located on Bay Road where Casa del Rey once stood.
While the restaurants may have closed, Paul Olvera’s family continues the catering business and for many years has been a fixture at Jazz on Jefferson.
The Recipe: Casa del Rey Chili Relleno Peppers
This recipe from Casa del Rey was published in a series of articles featuring recipes from Saginaw restaurants. The piece detailed that Paul Olvera perfected and tested each of the recipes used at the restaurant and included an interview with Anaparo Gonzales, who cooked at Casa del Rey. She described teaching her children to prepare food and provided the following insight: “It’s so easy to buy things already made these days, but it’s important that they know how to make them from scratch.”
CHILI RELLENO PEPPERS
10 Poblano or bell peppers
10 egg whites
flour for dipping
Cheddar cheese
Relleno sauce (recipe below)
Carefully fry the peppers in hot oil for about 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels and let cool. Next, slice each pepper and remove the skin and seeds. Stuff each pepper with a small piece of cheddar cheese. Whip the egg whites until fluffy, set aside. Pre-heat a skillet with oil. Dip peppers in flour then in the egg whites. Fry several egg white covered peppers in a pan of hot oil at a time until brown on both sides. Top with grated cheese and Relleno Sauce. (The peppers may also be stuffed with chicken before dipping in egg whites).
RELLENO SAUCE
7 Poblano or bell peppers, thinly sliced
1 cup onions, diced
3 whole tomatoes, diced
I Jalapeno pepper, diced
1 can (32 ounces) tomatoes in juice
1 1/2 tablespoons garlic powder
2 1/2 tablespoons chicken base
2 tablespoons salt
Put sliced peppers and all the ingredients except the can of tomatoes in stock pot. Blend the can of tomatoes in blender, then add to pot. Let simmer on stove for about 30 minutes.
(The Saginaw News, November 4, 1980.)
Notes:
-- This kitchen tester had very stubborn peppers that did not want to give up their seeds. The attempt to remove the seeds after the peppers were fried and sliced meant I ended up with floppy pepper halves that were difficult to stuff. Tasted delicious, but ended up a mess. I would try alternative methods for seed removal.
Comentarios