“As You Like It,” Frankfurts [Hot Dogs] Made in Saginaw

“If you’re going to sell Red-hots and frankfurts sell the ‘As You Like It’ kind. They’re good and will make you money.”

-The Saginaw Evening News, August 13, 1907.

The story of the development of the hot dog and their companion bun is complex and shrouded in myth and legend. For an outline of the history of the hot dog, we defer to the National Hot Dog and Sausage Council website.

The hot dog’s first appearance in Saginaw is encumbered in tall tales. However, we know that by the 1880s, local butchers were advertising Frankfurt sausages. And before 1900, the bun-encased Frankfurts were being hawked at events in Saginaw. By 1900, the combination had become popular, and Frankfurts were no longer simply found at butcher shops catering to Saginaw’s German-American community. Saginaw’s larger meat-packing houses – such as Hennings--advertised Frankfurts and their spiced relative, the red hot. Before 1905, “As You Like It” brand Frankfurts manufactured by U.S. Horse Radish Company entered the market.

Chartered in 1903, U. S. Horse Radish was located along in the 200 block of North Water – then Tilden Street.  A 1905-1906 Saginaw business publication recounts, “U.S. HORSE RADISH CO., 219-221-223 N. Tilden St., J.C. Vogt, Pres. and Mgr. This is an exclusive industry in Saginaw, and the largest exclusive horse-radish factory in the United States. They began business three years ago, and reached mammoth proportions in the manufacture of horse-radish, sausage and mince meat, which had national fame under the ‘As You Like It Brand.’”

1908 View of Department Where "As You Like It" Frankfurts Were Made

On October 8, 1905, The Saginaw Evening News detailed the opening of the firm’s new plant on the corner of Johnson and Water Streets:

“This new building is one of the finest and most modern of its kind to be found anywhere and the people are asked to call Tuesday afternoon and see it and its cold storage plant.” 

The article continued to extol the capabilities of the artificial cooling system and reported:

“Tuesday they will have on display one of the finest lines of dressed beef, fresh smoked meats and sausages that has even been brought to Saginaw Valley which in turn will be distributed among the leading markets of the city where the people of Saginaw will have a chance to secure it” (The Saginaw Evening News, October 9, 1905.)

U.S. Horse Radish heavily promoted their “As You Like It” Frankfurts and red hots. In 1907, when Saginaw was in the midst of celebrating its semicentennial, they advertised:

“Next week is the big week, so be prepared. If you have decided to run a stand during the week and keep our visitors’ appetites appeased get your order for ‘As You Like It’ Red-hots and Frankfurts in before the end of the week.

Owing to the superior qualities of the ‘As You Like it’ red-hots and frankfurts the demand this week have been very heavy and the factory says it will be necessary for its customers to get their orders in early.”

View of the Industrial Parade during the Semi-Centennial Celebration, August 24, 1907.  While this parade celebrated Saginaw industries, no vendors selling “As You Like It” Frankfurts are visible in the photograph.

U.S. Horse Radish also stressed the cleanliness of its plant. One article reported:

“In these days of packing house investigations and scandals, it is a source of keen pleasure to learn that one of Saginaw’s leading factories has been voluntarily accorded an unusual honor by not only City Inspector Lester, but also by Mr. Crabel, one of the state inspectors. The concern referred to is the United Stated Horse Radish company, which with the Voight Provision company, occupies the handsome building at the corner of North Tilden and Johnson street. The two inspectors recently visited the factory and found, in their own words ‘a condition of cleanliness, close onto the order of marvelous prevails.’”

The article also noted, “the room [where the sausages were made] could be converted any moment into a sewing parlor without the slightest trouble or inconvenience” (The Saginaw Evening News, March 5, 1907.)

While heavily promoted, by 1910 it appears the company was not thriving, and “As You Like It” hot dogs – we mean Frankfurts --disappeared from the marketplace by 1912 along with their other products, including horse radish.

The Recipe: Hot Dogs for Two

As an easy post-Valentine’s Day meal, we provide a simply prepared dish inspired by today’s exploration of “As You Like It” Frankfurts.

As we are no longer are able to purchase “As You Like It” frankfurters, we are substituting Koegel’s Vienna in a natural casing.

Hot Dogs for Two:

4 Koegel Vienna Hot Dogs*

4 Buns*

Condiments of your choice: We have had a long discussion about what condiments were in favor and did not fully resolve the issue. This link will take you to a brief history of mustard. https://www.fancymustard.com/blog/the-brief-history-of-mustard

Preparation: Prepare hot dogs following instructions on package. Lightly heat buns – grill, steam or even microwave. Place hot dog in bun and serve. Diners top with condiments.

We conclude with a portion of U.S. Horse Radish slogan:

“How Happy we shall be

Eat ‘As You Like It’ frankfurts.

With your appetite they agree”

(The Saginaw Evening News, October 19, 1904.)

*After preparing this recipe, we realized that there might be a better substitute for “As You Like It” Frankfurts.  Although time did not allow us to redo the recipe – and a make road trip--Kerns in Frankenmuth makes a frankfurter and sells buns in their bakery. This is link to their website: https://kernssausage.com/linked-pre-cooked/    We suspect, this would be a more interesting recreation.